The T3200E thread
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Re: The T3200E thread
Interested? Yes!
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- 937carrera
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Re: The T3200E thread
Call Dave at Performance Unlimited
http://www.performanceunlimited.co.uk/machine-shop/
Lots of other kit as well as the digitiser and flowbench, I think you two will get on
http://www.performanceunlimited.co.uk/machine-shop/
Lots of other kit as well as the digitiser and flowbench, I think you two will get on
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
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Re: The T3200E thread
Thanks! No harm in having another contact.
Now, if only the wider economy could just recover sufficiently, then more T3 owners could enjoy the virtues of a big capacity flat four...or six!
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Now, if only the wider economy could just recover sufficiently, then more T3 owners could enjoy the virtues of a big capacity flat four...or six!
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Re: The T3200E thread
Happy days! Parts don't come much rarer than this, not cheap but I cant do without or make one!
Also discovered that an old Jag XJ6 4.2 S3 (Lucas/Bosch efi) inlet bellows fits not only the AFM but the throttle body too...I need to get two of these and a short pipe (for the crankcase breathers) between the AFM and the throttle body, might just go?
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Also discovered that an old Jag XJ6 4.2 S3 (Lucas/Bosch efi) inlet bellows fits not only the AFM but the throttle body too...I need to get two of these and a short pipe (for the crankcase breathers) between the AFM and the throttle body, might just go?
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Re: The T3200E thread
Inlet elbow repaired (bypass air lug rebuilt, it had been cut off to allow fitting of the VR6 Throttle body)
I also linished the flange faces flat, the other end (toward the plenum) was miles out, it must have had a huge air leak. Almost certainly caused by distortion from the welded-on idle air bosses that have been altered/added way back.
I reckon this engine had an upgrade or recall to Oettinger, there are early and late idle valve positions with the early one having it tucked underneath (for cosmetic reasons?)
Presumably they were found to overheat with the valve placed so close to the top of the engine case.
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I also linished the flange faces flat, the other end (toward the plenum) was miles out, it must have had a huge air leak. Almost certainly caused by distortion from the welded-on idle air bosses that have been altered/added way back.
I reckon this engine had an upgrade or recall to Oettinger, there are early and late idle valve positions with the early one having it tucked underneath (for cosmetic reasons?)
Presumably they were found to overheat with the valve placed so close to the top of the engine case.
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Re: The T3200E thread
Aircon compressor mount: I'm taking a chance with an early one (aftermarket? No part number...) that I chopped about to clear the inlet manifold and just got back from the welders
I think it should clear the body/hatch frame in the syncro because the engine sits about 45mm lower in the body, its no taller than the distributor cap.
I think that I may use a relocated Golf 2 "goldfish bowl" header tank, they seem to work well for other engine swaps and its still VW
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I think it should clear the body/hatch frame in the syncro because the engine sits about 45mm lower in the body, its no taller than the distributor cap.
I think that I may use a relocated Golf 2 "goldfish bowl" header tank, they seem to work well for other engine swaps and its still VW
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Re: The T3200E thread
Had a bit of a measure up and compared it to the 2wd: 525mm from bellhousing face to the end of the compressor pulley and c.140mm tall from the case centre rib. Clears the body by miles both ways but the header tank will need a new home, I dont want to go with the Oettinger location (in the n/s rear light recess) because I want that for the oil cooler!
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Re: The T3200E thread
I have discovered that "020 S" has been run with a compromised distributor for its entire life due to a casing machining fault!
Basically, the clamp (and distributor) couldn't seat properly because of an undersize spot-face (note the bruise and the hacked about stud hole in the rusty original clamp)
How to fix it...breakout the powerfile!
10mins careful tickling and its sorted, fag paper gaps between clamp, dizzy and case.
Now why couldn't Oettinger have done that?
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Basically, the clamp (and distributor) couldn't seat properly because of an undersize spot-face (note the bruise and the hacked about stud hole in the rusty original clamp)
How to fix it...breakout the powerfile!
10mins careful tickling and its sorted, fag paper gaps between clamp, dizzy and case.
Now why couldn't Oettinger have done that?
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Re: The T3200E thread
A little light wbx6 case machining...
Picked up the RH casing and offered it up to the Huron mill yesterday, to see if my dipstick relocation mod was feasable with the tools at hand.
(wbx6 have a peculiar dipstick location down in the oil filler tube boss, the knowledge says to ignore the oil levels and to run them much higher than the stick suggests if you want it to survive)
About five hours later (all told) and its turned out quite well!
Standard wbx4 (syncro) dipstick shortened by 20mm to clear the oil pickup boss, the tube is currently standard length but this makes the low notch into the high, if I shorten the both by another 10mm or so it will all chime in.
The drill guide bush has become the dipstick tube extension, it helps the stick find the lowest drilling through that web. This was intentional, it guarantees that the dipstick cannot get anywhere near the timing gear!
The tube retaining bracket will have to be reworked but thats no drama, not quite sure of where it needs to point at the moment to clear the belts etc.
For the record, you are looking at about 9.5 to 10 degrees off-vertical both ways.
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Picked up the RH casing and offered it up to the Huron mill yesterday, to see if my dipstick relocation mod was feasable with the tools at hand.
(wbx6 have a peculiar dipstick location down in the oil filler tube boss, the knowledge says to ignore the oil levels and to run them much higher than the stick suggests if you want it to survive)
About five hours later (all told) and its turned out quite well!
Standard wbx4 (syncro) dipstick shortened by 20mm to clear the oil pickup boss, the tube is currently standard length but this makes the low notch into the high, if I shorten the both by another 10mm or so it will all chime in.
The drill guide bush has become the dipstick tube extension, it helps the stick find the lowest drilling through that web. This was intentional, it guarantees that the dipstick cannot get anywhere near the timing gear!
The tube retaining bracket will have to be reworked but thats no drama, not quite sure of where it needs to point at the moment to clear the belts etc.
For the record, you are looking at about 9.5 to 10 degrees off-vertical both ways.
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Last edited by silverbullet on 31 Dec 2018, 18:09, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The T3200E thread
...and a few more!
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Re: The T3200E thread
Started the year as I mean to go on (also needed to clear the decks before work starts tomorrow!)
Fine tuned the dipstick/oil level (high level now the same as a 4-cyl), did a mock-up with the necessary combination of Oetti oil filler, 2wd 4-cyl dipstick tube, shortened syncro dipstick (they have a higher "low" oil level, green top) and some alternator brackets etc.
All looks good as regards dipstick access and the engine hatch, its nicely on engine centreline and if too high I can always bend the tube a little. Also blanked off the redundant hole with a modified VC DIN M10x1 plug.
That last bit was really fidddly!
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Fine tuned the dipstick/oil level (high level now the same as a 4-cyl), did a mock-up with the necessary combination of Oetti oil filler, 2wd 4-cyl dipstick tube, shortened syncro dipstick (they have a higher "low" oil level, green top) and some alternator brackets etc.
All looks good as regards dipstick access and the engine hatch, its nicely on engine centreline and if too high I can always bend the tube a little. Also blanked off the redundant hole with a modified VC DIN M10x1 plug.
That last bit was really fidddly!
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Re: The T3200E thread
I had to remind myself of the 3.2-S specs to get a frame of reference for expected performance, so I took a trip over to vw-pix.org and borrowed this one from the 1986 Oettinger archive...
200 Nm always on tap, 275 peak at 3800rpm and 129kw (175 bhp) for the versions without a cat.
That's Rover 3500 Vitesse territory
Now that I have ported the heads a little and the cam spec is still undecided (I fancy using the "mildy warm" profile developed for the wbx 2.5) I reckon its going to be quite nice to drive.
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200 Nm always on tap, 275 peak at 3800rpm and 129kw (175 bhp) for the versions without a cat.
That's Rover 3500 Vitesse territory
Now that I have ported the heads a little and the cam spec is still undecided (I fancy using the "mildy warm" profile developed for the wbx 2.5) I reckon its going to be quite nice to drive.
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Re: The T3200E thread
Resorted to drilling out the 6mm (oversize?) bearing dowels from the LH casing. Another example of just getting away with it...
The youngest cam bearing is dated 12/97 so that gives an idea of its last rebuild date.
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The youngest cam bearing is dated 12/97 so that gives an idea of its last rebuild date.
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- 937carrera
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Re: The T3200E thread
silverbullet wrote:Resorted to drilling out the 6mm (oversize?) bearing dowels from the LH casing. Another example of just getting away with it...
The youngest cam bearing is dated 12/97 so that gives an idea of its last rebuild date.
You've been a busy boy over the holiday break.
Why did you need to drill out the bearing dowels, aren't they just a friction /push fit
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
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Re: The T3200E thread
The dowels in this half were a firm fit. I tried warming up the case, but they were hard in there.
I also machined away all the damage/swaging around the rear main seal resulting from the excess crank end-float.
I think thats everything!
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I also machined away all the damage/swaging around the rear main seal resulting from the excess crank end-float.
I think thats everything!
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