Clutch for 1Y engine replacement?

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colinthefox
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Re: Clutch for 1Y engine replacement?

Post by colinthefox »

Ok, could be a different bit then. I don't think I've come across one of them.

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Oldiebut goodie
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Re: Clutch for 1Y engine replacement?

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

Is he referring to the release bearing sleeve perchance?
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Re: Clutch for 1Y engine replacement?

Post by soundhound »

--> colinthefox
is your' muff coupler' the same as the spigot bearing?
the bit I was referring to, on the other side of the bell housing (by which I meant on the side of the housing facing the actual gearbox internals), is not at the end of the shaft.

--> ajsimmo:
mine has what I would call a spiral groove in it so your oil thrower sounds right.
it's an interference fit to the casing (when it came out!) but lots of clearance around the shaft.
that sounds fine for an oil thrower .... :roll:

when I started this thread I was aware of comments that a missing spigot bearing would eventually trash a gearbox.
but this minor saga shows that the immediate consequence, a ruined seal and hence clutch, should be added to the description!

a moment's pause - when is a clutch plate actually ruined by oil contamination beyond saving?

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Aidan
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Re: Clutch for 1Y engine replacement?

Post by Aidan »

once the oil has soaked into the material it degrades it so it will have a shortened life
normally it takes just 350miles for a van with no spigot bearing fitted to damage the oil seal and the oil thrower that is behind it and wet the clutch to the point it's slipping, that's with a new clutch, about enough distance to get to France and break down :roll:
to change the oil seal it is advisable to remove the bellhousing as it makes it a lot easier to pull the seal and fit the new one (below flush) and you can then inspect the oil thrower and repair if necessary, it should be rigidly fitted in the case. I have replacement oil throwers made in slight oversize on the castellation edge so that if the old one is only just a bit loose and a bit worn the new one will still be an interference fit and be centred, a dadge of bearing retainer to glue in place for belt and braces, but when it's long term oil thrower failure evident after several seal replacements and a spigot bearing have not cured the leak then the case may be so damaged it needs sleeving to take a new oil thrower and for it to be correctly centred, they only have around 0.5mm radial clearance on the shaft. Paper gasket for the bellhousing may rip and want replacing when removed from box; see the drainplug magnet, change the oil. :ok
Don't grease the guide tube just clean it the release bearing has a plastic sleeve, grease just attracts clutch dust which then becomes a grinding paste
Do lubricate the contact points of the clutch fork and the release bearing
If diesel then ensure the timing cover and cap are fitted as they keep road dirt and moisture out of the clutch and especially prevents excessive wear of the clutch fork brass bush and the resulting asymmetric wear on the fork tips
May be worth doing a lube refresh on the fork bushes, which doesn't involve melting a hole in the plastic one with a soldering iron and squirting some oil in there but I have seen dozens and dozens of bellhousings where that has been done someone must have decided it was a quick and easy way to do it back in the day

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