1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

for questions and answers about alternative power transplants on the T25, GTi, Porsche,Subaru etc, this is the place. You must register to post but anyone can read.

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kit
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by kit »

18.4 which is worth the efort :)
1y Tin top rust collector.

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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

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any other cars ?
the word 'pissing' is safe

Dave and gail.....1983 Pop Top 1.9n/a diesel (aka Ready Steady Eddie)

kit
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

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Caddy.
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weldore
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by weldore »

:ok

ive got a feeling this is going to be very long for 1 post...how large can one post be admin / mods ?
prolly have to split it up
the word 'pissing' is safe

Dave and gail.....1983 Pop Top 1.9n/a diesel (aka Ready Steady Eddie)

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weldore
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by weldore »

added a bit more...any thoughts ?
the word 'pissing' is safe

Dave and gail.....1983 Pop Top 1.9n/a diesel (aka Ready Steady Eddie)

kit
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by kit »

Pump options, I was advised by a well established diesel specialist that he would have kept the 1.6 pump as it physically fits and it has no electronics to get in the way, thoughts?
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by peteabbott »

Nice one Dave, just dont forget the Swarfega :wink:
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weldore
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by weldore »

:lol: pete...im hoping someone who has recently done the swap could help as its about 4 years since i did mine.

if not ill get round to it when the nights are long :ok
the word 'pissing' is safe

Dave and gail.....1983 Pop Top 1.9n/a diesel (aka Ready Steady Eddie)

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Oldiebut goodie
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by Oldiebut goodie »

I am doing mine at present but it is a long job as can only work at it for a short time sporadically due to the arferitis.

An engine hoist and engine stand are a godsend. Beats having to manhandle an engine on the deck. (As your body gets older anything to save on bending is a lifesaver)


What I have purchased so far ex Brickwerks:

1 Flywheel bolt set - inline 4cyl ..................................01197 [x6].......£10.26
1 Guide Sleeve for release bearing - T3 all .....................8130300100.......£3.74
1 Cam/Crank/I shaft oil seal .....................................325.155...........£3.24
1 Crank oil seal - VW Diesel [Flywheel end] .....................342.093...........£7.87 Finally got to mine - it's a 'one piece' -£40ish!!!! ......Hopefully I can use the housing off the old engine.
1 Coolant flange - T3 D/TD Large - ALLOY T3D................121 133 E.........£5.36
1 Full Clutch - T3 Diesel [all] .....................................3000 162 001....£92.63
1 Oil Cooler Sealing ring ...........................................18776..............£2.31
1 T3 Diesel [ALL] Oil Dipstick Funnel .............................036 115 636......£1.37
1 Crank pulley bolt - most 4 cyl Diesels...........................09590..............£2.14

+
Spigot bearing
Oil + filter
Anti-freeze
Intending to keep normal belt setup so new v-belt.Even though my engine is from a 1998 Caddy I am playing safe with the crankshaft nose and keeping to a v-belt as I don't have a clutched alternator. Bolt must be replaced if removed.
new cambelt+tensioner...........................................................................£31
Gallon of farmyard degreaser!
Couple of boxes of latex gloves (swarfega if you are macho!).
Check engine and gearbox mounts whilst engine out. (I've already done mine so price unknown)

Inlet and exhaust not decided yet, possibly cobble together a stainless exhaust system, inlet - thinking about, have some thoughts but will need to play.
Cold start, creating and testing a timed solenoid as people have experienced difficult starting when warm. (my pump has one of those weird actuators that doesn't appear to work and the travel is only 5mm away from the cab so normal cable is back to front).

Intending to use the 1Y windage tray with the elongated holes plated over to try to prevent surging of oil up into bores on hard braking. (Peteabbott experienced something that may have been this). Bell housing will need sump bolt holes elongating by 2 or 3mm.

Colinthefox also:

colinthefox wrote: It's quite important to get the correct oil level to avoid oil surge if too low, and frothing if too high. I had some difficulty with the oil frothing after a motorway run, resulting in the Buzzer of Doom on the slip roads under heavy braking. I've now changed from an ordinary sump gasket to the baffle plate type, and so far it seems to have cured the problem. I had to extend the two gearbox holes where the sump bolts on by a couple of mm due to the thicker gasket, but easy enough, and I think it's an improvement.

Image
Image

Fabricated metal oil breather flange due to original plastic disintegrating - won't have to worry about that happening again.
Image


Silver soldered piece of copper tube into 1Y dipstick tube - stainless steel strips from wiper blades as temporary/permanent? dipstick.
Image

Am just playing with the 1Y inlet manifold, taking 5/6mm off the upper edge and grinding/filing back to the lower edge gives 1/2 an inch extra clearance between the bodywork in the engine bay and the manifold. The bolt holes wil need to be reamered at an angle and the washer seat slightly dressed to keep the bolt head square. It brings the exhaust recirculating flange on the manifold fairly close to the cam cover but should be OK. (Fingers crossed) Would have had it milled but my local guy has retired.

The first cut is the deepest.... nothing to lose!
Image

Just about there:
Image
Clearance between manifold and breather hat.

Image

Image

The gain in clearance appears to be closer to 1 inch rather than the 1/2 inch that I envisaged! It lifts the manifold up and away from where it would foul the bodywork/chassis member. I hope that I have got it right for the swap over. :)
Don't forget to check that the manifold bolts don't bottom out as you have decreased the thickness of the manifold. I have taken a couple of mm off mine to leave sufficient clearance at the bottom of the hole.

Update on this - haven't gained as much clearance as I had hoped for - I have had to 'adjust' the bodywork also to allow sufficient clearance!

Not too happy with using the original steel gasket - so made a new one courtesy of the pound shop gasket material - silicone baking sheet, quick and easy to cut out unlike normal gasket material.

Image

Now, whether or not to keep the exhaust gas recirculation system?

Will add bits as and when I think of/do/buy/make stuff.
Last edited by Oldiebut goodie on 16 Feb 2013, 23:16, edited 13 times in total.
1.6D 2019 VW T-Cross
200hp VW T6
1̶Y̶ ̶1̶9̶8̶7̶ ̶H̶i̶-̶t̶o̶p̶ ̶C̶a̶r̶a̶v̶e̶l̶l̶e̶
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shaka1976
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by shaka1976 »

I found this thread a very good source of information.
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/16cs- ... 600#426837

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weldore
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by weldore »

well thats a very full list obg,i see your leaving nothing to chance..which is the correct way to go of course ,but when i did mine i did it on the bare minimum parts as i didnt know at the time if the engine even worked.its been ok since but really i should start to look after it more(ive bought a new clutch though..when that gets fitted is anyones guess :lol: )

but everyone..please please please..if you think you can add anymore or even change the stuff ive put on for something better then please do ,if everyone gave 30 mins to it ,it wouldnt take long to do :ok

im liking the sump plate obg....it just dawned on me in that thread that it was set up for a tranny engine
the word 'pissing' is safe

Dave and gail.....1983 Pop Top 1.9n/a diesel (aka Ready Steady Eddie)

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ringo
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by ringo »

Good topics worth covering IMHO :
- Sump gasket options. Inc issues lining up bell housing etc
- oil dipstick options
- pump mods needed inc. modding the lever so you can fit the engine hatch lid, getting round the immobiliser if fitted and of course types available
- belt setup options - ribbed belt or v belt.

Nice one Weldore - great idea. Lets get our collective heads on and then get it in the wiki.

I'll try and dig some photos up although its been a long time since I did my three 1ys!

Ringo
Now driving a big bad VW LT Florida.

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ringo
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by ringo »

Alternator belt setup.

One option available when transplanting a complete 1Y is to keep the alternator and water pump that came with the engine. The noticeable difference here being the different belt setup. The 1Y has the ribbed belt whilst the original is a V belt.
Advantages of doing this include saving a bit of time, (I found taking the alternator bracket off a bit tricky and ha to buy a new extension for my socket wrench) enjoying the self adjustment feature (spring loaded) of the 1Y alternator and possibly ending up with a newer more powerful alternator.
Disadvantages are the wiring setup is different between the two setups - so you are going to have to work this out (note to Weldore - maybe someone could supply this missing information).

Please feel free to E D I T or throw this away.....

Ringo
Now driving a big bad VW LT Florida.

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weldore
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by weldore »

great stuff ringo,i would tend to forget stuff like this as im a bit of a numpty.
ill add it to the relevent section then we can sort it out later :ok
the word 'pissing' is safe

Dave and gail.....1983 Pop Top 1.9n/a diesel (aka Ready Steady Eddie)

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weldore
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Re: 1.6d to 1y the definitive guide

Post by weldore »

the one thing im worried about is the pic thing...when they are put into the wiki are they part of the forum or are they still links from other sites ?
the word 'pissing' is safe

Dave and gail.....1983 Pop Top 1.9n/a diesel (aka Ready Steady Eddie)

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