Club 80-90 Forums

This might seem like a silly question but is it only visible within the Victron Bluetooth app when it's charging? I tried connecting but not whilst charging and couldn't see it. I guess it would always be 'listening' and drawing charge if on all the time was my assumption.

Fitted the Victron in the end. Fairly simple swap and works like a charm...

ah ok - thanks for taking time to reply. I've learnt something today 

The one that was in there thats blown appears to be 11.6a. (Clear one inside box at the top next to the thermal fuse)

...update: Just seen on outside of box 1,6a but defo looks like 11.6 on the fuse

ok thanks, I guess I should replace the clear fuse first and see if it just blows again. I'm struggling to read the rating on it - any idea?

I was about to reply yes but now I'm guessing now this is different to the transparent fuse from the same area. 

What am I looking for? Is it that little black square tab half under the orange bar? If so that appears to be ok when doing a continuity test but I'm a bit of an amateur with the meter...

Hi all,  noticed nothing was charging on hookup this weekend. Figured out lights are not on leisure yet. I'm now wondering if it's been like this for ages and I've never noticed. We normally plug stuff in to the socket, toaster etc and maybe were running lights of starter without realising. I know s...

So to update this.. after getting the gaiter back on at box end of linkage it was mostly solved but I was still having to double clutch, that is when going from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd etc I had to clutch, go into neutral, come off clutch & back on to get into gear. The gaiter came off again but ...

Planning all the maintenance as suggested above but was driving earlier and as I pulled up it was stuck in first. Couldn't get out of gear. Turned engine off and it came out easily. Does this change anything i.e hint toward clutch not disengaging? or not really?

thanks

So fixed this, spliced wires, solder and heat shrink. Also redid an earlier repair to alternator pigtail from crimps to solder and heat shrink (Have another thread about alternator voltage). Started up and temp gauge moved slightly further but much the same really but battery light stayed on (I thin...

I found the problem. The sender was the one I circled in the picture and on closer inspection a wire was hanging by a thread just inside the plug so it wasn't obvious at first... plus my eyes aren't as good as they were. As ever thanks everyone for responses and helping to narrow it down. Will fix o...

No I haven't checked anything yet. I'm not sure of their locations. Obviously 2 wires coming out of coolant tank, I'm guessing that's for coolant level warning light? and I know there is a temp sender on the engine somewhere (as maybe marked in my pic). I've read in the wiki about removing and buffi...

Thanks, appreciate the reply - Do you mean unplug the sender on the engine? And if so is this it in the pic circled yellow?. I think I read red and yellow wires but wires have browned a bit with age. Engine running or ignition on?

Previously temp gauge seemed to work perfectly, came up to halfway where the red warning light is consistently. I had some work done on a blowing manifold and also new oil return etc. In the process the belt for the coolant pump was reversed as it was previously fitted the wrong way around on my AAZ...

So I'm still getting fairly low voltages when charging13.30 on starter below 13 on leisure. I'm guessing next step is the alternator. I have a local man that refurbishes alternators. So I can either attempt to swap brush pack in situ or remove alternator and take to him to refurb (or swap brushes my...