Club 80-90 Forums

I just want to chime in on MPG since I've been monitoring economy very closely since fuel became rare, then not so rare but very expensive.  My remapped AFN with 5 speed flipped box in a high top was getting high 20's to low 30's most of the time, then last week I changed the injectors for some 20,0...

Looking at the petrol DG wiring diagrams- Taking the feed from the rad fan high speed relay supply (fuse s1) to terminal N seems dodgy to me. :shock: At full speed the rad fan takes 300W, that's 20-25A depending on battery volts. Assuming (never good to assume but hey ho) that the current is split ...

Brilliant.

I'm guessing there's nothing clamped on the piston as such, just something pressing down on it which doesn't need to be disconnected?

Thanks, Dave.

CovKid wrote:Before I upgraded mine, I rarely saw more than 11-11.5 volts at dash

What engine are you running? I could understand that kind of volt-loss with a diesel but if petrol with front mounted batteries then I'd be shocked.

Been driving out today in the bus, noted a marked difference in the speed of wipers and electric windows. Lights were also WAY brighter but I have recently upgraded from Tungsten to Halogen and not driven it in the dark since. Starting to think perhaps the voltage increase by this mod might be bette...

Is it possible to replace the clutch master cylinder without removing the whole pedal box?

If so, how?

Thanks.

Battery in front of petrol under drivers seat so voltdrop to fusebox is probably not as bad as diesel. Aye, true, but my lights are a tad dim... So much in fact, that on a really dark rd, I can put my full beam on to see and it doesn't bother people coming the other way..!! ( Or at least no-one act...

I am assuming here you have utilised an additional spare cable from front to rear of the van? Yes, precisely, the high speed setting of the radiator fan has it's own heavy duty cable going from the battery area to the front right next to the fuse box. All I'm doing here is paralleling the 2 cables ...

Nice one, I used that radiator fan connection to drive my headlights when I fitted relays to take the load off the light switch. Good to see a well used Fluke meter too! I recall seeing a couple of people explaining that they'd used the fan feed as a headlight feed so yea, good idea! And yea, she's...

The past couple of days I've been doing some work on the bus and took some interest in the fusebox. It's well known that there's a big volt drop from front to back on vehicles with rear mounted batteries such as my Diesel, this causes dull headlights, slow wipers and slow fans. The fuse box looks li...

Spot on. Found it on page 3 of the JX wiring manual on Syncrosport's website. Fairly sure I've worked out it's original purpose, looks like it has the normal connections for +ve, ign, 0v, connection to starter signal and a few other unidentified ones so it looks like it's some sort of high current r...

itchyfeet wrote:
sorry didn't mean to teach you to suck eggs

Not at all!

So, does anyone know what the relay in position 2 is for?

Aye, no worries on that point, I'm an electrical engineer so I'm used to this stuff.

The reason for this phenomena is high input impedence of multimeters, it basically puts zero load on the terminal so it can suffer from leakage from adjacent terminals.

A test lamp is ideal for this stuff.

not convinced about G3 download diagram here, alot is common across models http://syncrosport.com/info/wiring/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Yea, fair enough, seems like it should be F12. Odd because when I pulled F3 it went dead. I'll have another poke around in a few da...

Ok, Thanks for the input chaps, I've now got it sorted and found out some interesting things. Instead of tagging on to G2 I've instead used G1, which was originally the power feed for the rear under-seat blower motor, since I removed the blower and replaced it with an EBER D3LC then this was redunda...