Club 80-90 Forums

RogerT wrote: ↑Today, 19:25 https://manuall.co.uk/swift-conqueror-6 ... 0-caravan/

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Thats a great find, thanks! Now I can make sense of the electrical system and label the fuses. Might even get the alarm working...

R0B wrote: ↑Today, 14:20 Is this any good Ian? AEG-Electrolux RM4290L, RM4290 User Manual (manualmachine.com)

Thats useful, thanks. I also need a manual for the caravan itself, it seems that Swift (the company) run the owners club (paid) and jealously guard the archive for manuals

I need to locate a manual for it, but I am not getting mixed up with the Swift Owners Club (shudder) or pay money just to download one.

It does tow nicely, very stable with the Al-Ko damped hitch. I have only just discovered that the water tank is full...which could explain the mpg when we collected it the other week, although 23-24 isnt bad for that combination as the Sprinter won't break 30mpg empty anyway. I have no idea what the...

Thanks Steve, if it won't give in easily I'll take the low road and replace it.

Oh no Rob, just the syncro remains and I won't be gettng another! That's quite enough for me.

Back to the fridge, which also needs a new door catch (the price of them!)



After a clean I can now read the label. RM 4291 L

PS I won't be towing it with the syncro, for full pikey effect the Sprinter does what it does best.

14+ metres and 4 tonnes at the kerb!

Well since you insist...stitch the second two together for the full effect. https://i.imgur.com/3rCXjlI.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/PxMDtKD.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/YMF1Hgn.jpeg Its a lot of tin foil and wet rot for under £3k :lol: In my defence, the lady wants her own bathroom and it means we can safe...

A single adult human can exhale and sweat around half a litre of water in 8 hours overnight, it has to go somewhere!

Confession time: I bought a shed on wheels. Circa 2000, its got a larger Electrolux fridge/freezer in fake wood/hearing aid beige but I don't think its ever been used on gas. The control knob (far right hand side) won't push in to allow it to turn, so I presume that its seized. Where to start? The i...

davidoft1 wrote: ↑02 May 2024, 09:18

Wbxnewby wrote: ↑02 May 2024, 05:41 Useful info thanks. I will reuse the flywheel now I can rotate it 1/5 .

Not sure you can, the bolts holes positions
aren’t all the same

Thats inline engines

Loose hub nut or loose CV bolts?

Front hub (taper) bearings should be set to approx 3 thou' endfloat or 0.07mm. Never "nip" them or set them tight, thats when they overheat, the stub axle gets red hot and fails...

Its all in the Haynes Book of Lies, they got that bit right.

PS imho VW should have used locking compound on the splines but it would make assembly a messy job, although my 1972 Rover P6 specced loctite AVV (superceded by 270) for the IRS rear hub stub axles and they had to have the taper roller bearing preload set up before final assembly.

FWIW the very large torque required on rear stub axle nuts (revised upwards from the earliest models) is afaik to prevent the coarse splines "fretting" and wearing as the drive torque is applied. Its got nothing to do with the bearing clearances once installed. Fitting the inner ball race ...